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How we work
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1st Phase - The wax model
Out of the multitude of jewelry pieces which we have brought to paper,
we choose one object which is to be actualised. In this case we have chosen a solitaire ring. The 1st phase is the most longsome,
but also the most important phase: From a simple piece of wax the modeller can create a ring using various
tools and techniques, giving the wax piece its desired shape...
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...A slim wax rod is attached to our finished object and then welded onto a
wax-covered metal support.
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...This procedure is repeated for a number of objects, and in doing so,
each single wax model is welded onto the support, creating a cluster of wax models.
Once completed, the cluster is placed onto a round rubber form providing hold from underneath.
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2nd Phase - The oven
The cluster of wax models is inserted into a steel cylinder.
The cylinder is then filled up to the brim with liquid plaster, covering each and every wax model.
Subsequently all inclusions of air are eliminated under vacuum...
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...Once the plaster has hardened, the rubber form from underneath as
well as the metal support are removed.
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...The steel cylinder containing the hardened plaster (which surrounds all wax models) is placed into
a special oven over night at a constant temperature of 700° C: The extreme heat melts the wax, causing it to drain out of the
hole on the underside of the hardened plaster. As a result we obtain a replica (negative image) of the wax models in our now hollow plaster.
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| 3rd Phase - The melting process
The steel cylinder is now
firmly fixated behind a melting crucible in which the gold is molten at a temperature over 1000° C...
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...As soon as the precious metal is completely molten, a lever is moved and the centrifuge
begins to spin: The blazing red liquid exits the crucible via a hole ob the back end and is shot
into the cylinder with great force. In less than one second the liquified gold takes up all of the hollow spaces
inside the plaster...
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...Once the metal has sufficiently cooled off we can remove the cylinder from the centrifuge.
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4th Phase
The cylinder is
immersed into water to remove most of the plaster from the now solidified gold models of the cluster...
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...The cluster is then placed in boiling hot water and treated with
ultrasound to remove even the finest trace of plaster. Once the cluster is dry we can seperate the single models from the cluster.
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5th Phase - The details
To begin with, the goldsmith has to gently file the surface of the metal model to remove
possible small unevenesses. (If an object consists of several pieces they will now be welded together)...
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...Afterwards the ring is thoroughly inspected and treated with fine sandpaper.
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6th Phase - Mounting the diamond
When the goldsmith has finished filing the surface of the ring he can place the desired gem stone.
The ring is held tight using a clamp and the point where the gem will be placed is prepared.
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...The diamond is positioned in the middle of the
solitaire structure and accurately mounted inbetween the prongs of precious metal.
There are many different shapes and setting techniques. The most important ones are:
Bezel setting - A diamond is completely surrounded by a precious metal border, almost like a picture frame.
Channel setting - Popular for mounting rows of small, uniformly-sized stones of different shapes.
This setting technique uses several strips of metal to hold the stones at the sides. It could be compared with a railroad track with the diamonds in the center.
Pavé setting - A setting technique in which the stones are set so closely together that no metal shows.
A pavé surface appears to be paved with diamonds.
Prong setting - A four- or six-prong setting using long, slender prongs to hold the stone.
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7th Phase - One last touch
Once the diamond is mounted, the entire ring is polished from the inside...
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...and the outside, using finer and finer fast rotating brushes.
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Finally all areas in white gold are coated with a
white metal called Rhodium. Rhodium is a metal very similar to platinum and shares many of its properties,
including its white color. The rhodium plating is used to make the white gold look more white, since the
natural color of white gold is actually a light grey color.
After this long process we have created a beautiful solitaire ring which we can now offer for sale.
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